Using a beauty dish can be a great way to add drama and definition to your headshot and portrait photography. It is one of the most popular light modifiers in beauty and fashion work, and it is not difficult to use once you understand how it shapes light. Here is what a beauty dish does and how to get the best out of it.
What Is a Beauty Dish?
A beauty dish is a shallow, bowl-shaped reflector that attaches to a flash. A small plate in the centre blocks the direct light from the flash tube and sends it back into the dish, which then reflects it towards the subject. The result is light that is more focused and contrasty than a softbox, but softer and more even than a bare flash. It defines cheekbones and jawlines, gives a gentle fall-off into shadow and produces round catchlights in the eyes.
Dishes come with a white interior, which gives a softer result, or a silver interior, which is brighter and has more contrast.
Step 1: Set Up Your Beauty Dish
First, attach the beauty dish to your flash and mount it securely on a light stand. Make sure the dish is fitted on the front of the flash with the central deflector plate in place, and that everything is locked tight. A beauty dish is heavier than an umbrella, so use a sturdy stand, and add a counterweight if you put it on a boom arm.
Step 2: Adjust the Distance and Angle
The distance and angle of the beauty dish have the biggest effect on the quality of the light.
- Keep it close. A beauty dish works best near the subject, typically within about a metre. Move it far away and the light becomes hard, losing the character that makes the dish special.
- Place it above eye level, angled down towards the face at roughly 45 degrees. This creates a small shadow under the nose and shapes the cheekbones.
- Check the eyes. If the dish is too high, the eye sockets go dark and the catchlights disappear. Lower it until you see a catchlight in each eye.
- Start in front, then experiment. Directly in front of the subject gives a symmetrical, classic beauty look. Moving it to one side gives more depth and drama.
Step 3: Adjust the Power of the Flash
The power of the flash controls the intensity of the light. Set your camera first, then raise or lower the flash power until the exposure on the face is right. Use a light meter if you have one, or take test shots and check the histogram and the highlights on the skin.
Step 4: Use a Diffuser or a Grid
If the light from the beauty dish is too harsh, fit a diffuser over the front. This fabric cover, often called a sock, softens the light and is especially useful for headshots, where it gives a more flattering result on the skin.
A honeycomb grid does the opposite job. It narrows the beam, keeps light off the background and concentrates it on the face, which is useful for moody, dramatic portraits.
Step 5: Fill the Shadows
Because the dish is placed above the face, it creates shadows under the chin and eyes. To soften them, hold a white or silver reflector at chest height below the face, or add a second, weaker light from below. This arrangement is known as clamshell lighting and is a standard setup in beauty photography.
Step 6: Choose Your Camera Settings
Finally, set your camera for studio flash:
- ISO: use your camera’s lowest native setting for the cleanest image.
- Shutter speed: stay at or below your camera’s flash sync speed.
- Aperture: a middle aperture such as f/5.6 to f/8 keeps the whole face sharp. Open up if you want a softer background.
From there, experiment with aperture and flash power to achieve the effect you want.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Placing the dish too far from the subject
- Positioning it so high that the eyes fall into shadow
- Forgetting to fill the shadows under the chin
- Using it without thought on skin that needs a softer light; a beauty dish shows texture
With practice and experimentation, you will be able to master the use of a beauty dish flash and create beautiful, dramatic headshots.
