Letná Park, Prague: History, Views and Photography Tips

Letná Park (Letenské sady in Czech) is a large park on Letná hill, laid out on a plateau above the steep left bank of the Vltava. Because it sits high above the river, directly opposite the Old Town, it offers some of the widest views in Prague: the bridges lined up one after another, the rooftops and towers of Staré Město, and Prague Castle off to the side. For a photographer it is one of the easiest places in the city to come home with a strong picture.

A short history of Letná

The hill has been open ground for centuries, used for military camps and gatherings long before it became a park in the 19th century. Its modern history is tied to one very large object. In 1955 an enormous monument to Joseph Stalin was unveiled at the edge of the park, looking down on the Old Town. It did not last long: only seven years later, in 1962, the monument was demolished. The massive stone base remained, and since 1991 the Prague Metronome, a tall red kinetic sculpture by Vratislav Karel Novák, has occupied the site.

Next to the park lies Letná Plain (Letenská pláň), a wide open field that played a role in the Velvet Revolution. On 25 and 26 November 1989 several hundred thousand people gathered here to protest against the Communist government; the figure most often quoted is around 750,000. These demonstrations were followed by a nationwide general strike on 27 November 1989.

What to see in Letná Park

• The Metronome. The platform under the Metronome is the heart of the park. It is a favourite of skateboarders and a relaxed meeting point at sunset, with the whole Old Town spread out below.
• Hanavský Pavilion. This ornate cast-iron pavilion was built for the Jubilee Exhibition of 1891 and later moved to Letná. The terrace beside it is where the famous photograph of the Vltava bridges is taken.
• The beer garden. Near the Letná Chateau (Letenský zámeček), at the eastern end of the park, there is a large open-air beer garden under chestnut trees with a view over the river. It is one of the most pleasant places in Prague on a warm evening.
• Long tree-lined paths. The park stretches along the whole edge of the hill, so you can walk from one end to the other with the view on one side almost all the way.

The National Technical Museum and the National Museum of Agriculture stand on the northern edge of the plain, and the residential streets of Letná behind them are full of cafes, which makes the park easy to combine with a slower afternoon away from the tourist centre.

How to get there

The most direct way from the Old Town is on foot: walk along Pařížská street, cross Čech Bridge (Čechův most) and climb the staircase that leads straight up to the Metronome. Trams stop at Čechův most at the foot of the hill. If you prefer to avoid the stairs, take a tram to Letenské náměstí and walk through the streets to the park on level ground. From Prague Castle you can also walk over through Chotkovy sady, which makes a good route if you want to link the castle and Letná in one walk.

Photographing Letná Park

The bridge view

The classic picture is the row of bridges over the Vltava seen from the terrace near Hanavský Pavilion. A medium telephoto lens works best here, because it compresses the bridges together; with a wide-angle lens they look small and far apart. Take a few steps left and right along the railing, since trees frame the view differently from each position.

Best light and time of day

Letná looks south and south-east over the river, so the light changes a lot during the day. Early morning is my favourite: the sun comes up over the Old Town side, the river often carries a little mist in autumn and winter, and the park is almost empty. Late afternoon gives warm side light on the bridges and the city, and the blue hour after sunset is ideal for the lit bridges and their reflections. Bring a tripod for that, or steady the camera on the stone wall.

Portraits and couples

For portrait, engagement and wedding photos the park is very practical. The tree-lined avenues give soft open shade even at midday, the Metronome platform gives a clean view with the city behind, and there is enough space that you rarely have to wait for people to move out of the frame. On weekends and warm evenings the area around the Metronome and the beer garden gets busy, so for a quiet session I would choose a weekday morning.

Seasons

Autumn is the strongest season, when the chestnut and maple trees turn yellow and the low sun lasts longer. Spring brings fresh green and blossom along the paths. In winter the trees are bare, which actually opens up more of the view, and on a snowy morning the bridges and rooftops look their best. Summer is green and lively, but the midday light is hard and the haze over the river can flatten the view, so come early or late.

Practical notes

The park is open and free to enter at all hours. There are few shelters, so check the forecast, and wear proper shoes if you plan to use the staircase from the river in wet or icy weather. If you want to visit the museums nearby or eat at one of the restaurants in the park, check their official websites for current opening times.

Looking for other places to visit and photograph? Browse more Prague guides on this site.