The suburb of Troja, across the river to the north of Holešovice and Bubeneč, still has a distinctly village feel to it. Its most celebrated sight is a Baroque chateau with a formal garden, perfectly situated against a hilly backdrop of vineyards. Troja’s other attractions are the city’s enormously popular zoo and the botanical garden, so the area can easily fill a whole day away from the crowded centre.
A short history of Troja Chateau
Troja Chateau (Trojský zámek) was built between 1679 and 1691 for Count Václav Vojtěch of Sternberg as a summer residence in the style of an Italian suburban villa. The architect was Jean Baptiste Mathey, a Frenchman who had trained in Rome. The count wanted to impress the emperor, and much of the decoration celebrates the Habsburg dynasty. The name of the chateau, and later of the whole district, refers to ancient Troy and to the classical themes of the sculptures.
Today the chateau is administered by Prague City Gallery, which uses it for exhibitions. It is normally open only during the warmer months of the year, so check the gallery’s official website for current opening times and admission before you travel out.
What to see
The garden staircase
The most striking feature of the exterior is the monumental double staircase on the garden side. It is covered with dramatic statues showing the battle of the Olympian gods with the Titans, the work of sculptors from Dresden. Giants tumble down the sides while the gods stand calmly above them.
The Grand Hall
Inside, the main hall is painted from floor to ceiling with illusionistic frescoes glorifying the Habsburgs and their victory over the Turks. It is one of the most impressive Baroque interiors in Bohemia.
The formal garden
In front of the chateau lies a French-style garden with clipped hedges, a central fountain, large terracotta vases and long straight paths that line up with the staircase. To the side there is an orchard and a small maze. The garden runs down towards the river, and the vineyards rise behind the red and white facade.
A great place for couple, family and solo photos
Troja is also a great place to take couple, family or solo photos. The Baroque monuments and the garden give you a grand, elegant setting, and compared with the gardens of Malá Strana there is far more space and far fewer people.
The long axis of the garden with the staircase at the end is the obvious backdrop, but the side paths, the hedges and the orchard give softer, greener frames.
If you are planning a professional session or wedding photos here, ask the chateau administration about permission in advance; rules for commercial photography can change.
Photographing Troja Chateau
- Best light. The garden front faces roughly south, so it is well lit for most of the day. Soft morning light and the last two hours before the garden closes are the most flattering; at midday in summer the light is hard and the pale gravel reflects a lot of it.
- Symmetry. Stand on the central path and keep the camera level for the classic symmetrical picture of the staircase and facade. Then move to the corners of the garden for a diagonal view with the hedges leading in.
- Details. A longer lens is useful for the statues on the staircase and the vases along the terrace.
- Seasons. Late spring and early summer bring the flower beds to their best. In autumn the vineyards and the trees behind the chateau turn golden.
- Crowds. Most visitors to Troja go to the zoo. The chateau garden is usually calm, especially on weekday mornings.
Botanical Garden Troja
Prague’s Botanical Garden (Botanická zahrada) is hidden on the wooded slopes to the north of the chateau. It features the historic St Claire’s vineyard with a small chapel, a Japanese garden, the Fata Morgana tropical greenhouse and great views over Prague and the river valley. Opening times vary by season; see the garden’s official website.
Prague Zoo
On the other side of the street U Trojského zámku, which runs along the west wall of the chateau, is the city’s large zoo. It opened in 1931, spreads over a steep hillside above the river and is regularly rated among the best zoos in Europe. It is open all year, and it is very busy on weekends and school holidays. Check the zoo’s official website for current opening times and tickets.
How to get there
Take metro line C to Nádraží Holešovice and change to bus 112, which runs to the Zoologická zahrada stop right by the chateau and the zoo entrance. In good weather you can also walk from Stromovka park across Císařský ostrov and the footbridge over the Vltava, a pleasant route of about half an hour.
Looking for other places to visit and photograph? Browse more Prague guides on this site.
